Black Sesame Latte

Before you start

A black sesame latte tastes deep, toasty and a little smoky, with a gray color that surprises people the first time. It is popular in East Asian cafés, and it needs no coffee or tea; the flavor comes entirely from toasted sesame seeds ground into a paste and whisked into hot milk.

Everything depends on the toast. Raw black sesame tastes flat and slightly bitter; toasted, it becomes rich and almost chocolatey. The catch is that you cannot see black seeds brown, so you judge by sound and smell instead. Grinding the seeds with the sweetener helps them break into a smooth paste, and a splash of hot water before the milk stops the paste from clumping.

Ingredients

• 2 tbsp (18 g) black sesame seeds — or 1½ tbsp ready-made unsweetened black sesame paste
• 2 tsp honey or maple syrup — or 2 tsp sugar
• 1 pinch salt
• 30 ml (2 tbsp) hot water
• 240 ml (1 cup) whole milk or oat milk
• 1 drop vanilla extract — optional

Method

1. Heat the frying pan over medium-low heat and add the sesame seeds. Toast for 3 to 4 minutes, shaking the pan often, until the seeds smell nutty and a few start to pop and jump. Tip them onto a plate at once so they do not keep cooking.
2. Let the seeds cool for a minute, then grind them in a mortar or spice grinder with the sweetener and salt until they form a dark, oily, fairly smooth paste. Some texture is fine.
3. Transfer the paste to the mug and add the hot water. Stir until it loosens into a smooth, pourable slurry with no dry lumps.
4. Heat the milk to 60°C to 65°C (140°F to 150°F), when it is hot to the touch but not scalding, and froth it with a steam wand or handheld frother until it has doubled with fine foam.
5. Pour the milk into the mug in a steady stream, stirring the sesame base as you go. Spoon the foam over the top and finish with a few toasted seeds or a light dusting of black sesame powder.
6. For a completely smooth latte, pour the sesame and water through a fine strainer into the mug before adding the milk, pressing on the solids.

Tips for success

• Listen for popping. That sound and a toasty smell are the only reliable signs of done, since the color will not change.
• A grinder makes the smoothest paste. If using a mortar, grind for a full 2 to 3 minutes until the oils release.
• Taste before adding more sweetener. Good sesame has natural sweetness, and too much honey hides its toasted depth.

Substitutions

Black sesame seeds

Unsweetened black sesame paste from Asian grocers saves the toasting and grinding; stir it well, as the oil separates. White sesame or tahini gives a lighter, beige drink with a milder flavor.

Whole milk

Oat milk froths well and complements the nutty flavor. Soy milk also works and is a common pairing for sesame drinks.

Honey

Brown sugar or a spoon of condensed milk makes a sweeter, rounder drink. Condensed milk adds extra dairy.

Variations

Iced black sesame latte

Stir the paste with 30 ml hot water, add 200 ml cold milk and pour over ice.

Black sesame and espresso

Add a shot of espresso to the sesame slurry for a toasty, caffeinated version.

Troubleshooting

The latte tastes bitter or acrid

The seeds burned. Toast over lower heat, shake the pan constantly, and stop as soon as you hear steady popping and smell toast.

Gritty bits stay at the bottom

The seeds were not ground finely enough. Grind longer, or strain the slurry before adding the milk.

The paste clumps in the milk

Milk went straight onto dry paste. Loosen it with hot water first, then add the milk slowly while stirring.

Storage

Make a batch of paste: toast 100 g seeds, grind with 40 g sugar or honey, a pinch of salt and 1 tbsp neutral oil, then refrigerate in a sealed jar for up to 2 weeks. Toasted seeds turn rancid at room temperature, so keep them sealed and cool.

Safety notes

Sesame is a major food allergen in the United States and can cause severe reactions. Label the drink clearly when serving guests, and keep sesame equipment separate when preparing drinks for someone with an allergy.