Einspänner (Viennese Coffee) Recipe

Before you start

The Einspänner is one of the classic coffees of Viennese coffeehouses: strong black coffee, usually a double espresso or a short, concentrated brew, served in a tall glass with a handle and topped with a generous layer of whipped cream. The name refers to a one-horse carriage, and a common story says drivers liked the cream for keeping the coffee warm, though that tale is hard to confirm.

The point is contrast. You do not stir it. You sip hot, bitter coffee through cold, soft cream, and the two mix slowly as you drink. That only works if the cream is whipped to soft-firm peaks so it floats in a thick layer, and if the coffee is strong enough to stand up to it. Sweetness is up to you: the cream here stays unsweetened, and sugar goes into the coffee before the cream goes on.

Ingredients

• 60 ml (2 oz) double espresso — or 90 ml of strong moka pot coffee
• 30 ml (1 oz) hot water — optional, to lengthen the espresso slightly
• 1 to 2 tsp sugar — optional, stirred into the coffee
• 80 ml (about ⅓ cup) cold heavy cream — 36 percent fat or higher
• 1 pinch cocoa powder — optional garnish

Method

1. Chill the bowl and whisk in the freezer for about 5 minutes. Cold equipment helps the cream whip quickly and hold its shape.
2. Pour the heavy cream into the bowl and whisk until it thickens and forms soft-firm peaks that bend over at the tip, about 2 minutes by hand or 45 seconds with a mixer. Stop before it turns grainy.
3. Warm the glass with hot water and empty it. Brew the double espresso straight into the glass, or brew strong moka coffee and pour in about 90 ml.
4. If you want a slightly longer drink, add the 30 ml of hot water. Stir in sugar now if you are using it, because you will not stir the drink later.
5. Spoon the whipped cream on top in a layer about 3 cm (1¼ in) thick. Rest the spoon on the coffee surface and let the cream slide off it so it floats rather than sinking.
6. Dust lightly with cocoa if you like. Serve with a glass of water, and drink it without stirring so the hot coffee passes through the cold cream.

Tips for success

• Whip by hand if you can. It is easier to stop at the soft-firm stage, and the cream stays smooth rather than buttery.
• Use the strongest coffee you can make. A mild brew turns into milky coffee once the cream starts to melt in.
• A tall, narrow glass keeps the cream layer thick. In a wide cup it spreads thin and mixes in too fast.

Substitutions

Heavy cream

Whipping cream with about 30 to 35 percent fat works but gives a softer, faster-melting cap. Light cream will not whip.

Espresso

About 90 ml of strong French press coffee, brewed at roughly 1:10, makes a fuller but less intense base.

Unsweetened cream

Whip in 1 tsp of powdered sugar if you prefer a sweet cap; keep the coffee unsweetened to balance it.

Variations

Iced Einspänner

Pour the sweetened espresso over ice with 60 ml of cold water, then top with the same whipped cream.

Wiener Melange-style

For a milkier Viennese coffee, add 60 ml of steamed milk to the espresso and use only a small spoonful of cream.

Troubleshooting

The cream sinks into the coffee

It is under-whipped. Whip until the peaks hold, and lower it onto the coffee from a spoon instead of dropping it in.

The cream looks lumpy and buttery

It was over-whipped. Fold in a tablespoon of cold liquid cream by hand to smooth it before topping the coffee.

The drink tastes weak and milky

The coffee was not concentrated enough. Use a full double espresso or a short, strong moka brew.

Storage

Serve right away. Whipped cream can be kept covered in the refrigerator for a few hours and briefly re-whisked. Do not leave dairy out at room temperature for more than 2 hours.