Hong Kong Milk Tea

Before you start

Hong Kong milk tea is a strong blend of black teas, simmered and strained through a fine cloth bag, then mixed with evaporated milk. The cloth gives it the nickname "silk stocking" tea. The result is darker, stronger and smoother than most milk teas, with a slight bitterness that the rich milk balances.

Three things define the style. A blend of broken-leaf Ceylon teas is common, sometimes with a little Pu-erh, and it must be brewed very strong. Pouring the tea back and forth through the cloth several times, called pulling, smooths and aerates it. And evaporated milk, not fresh milk, gives the creamy body and caramel-like note.

Ingredients

• 12 g (about 2 tbsp) broken-leaf Ceylon black tea — or a Hong Kong-style milk tea blend
• 450 ml (scant 2 cups) water
• 120 ml (½ cup) evaporated milk — 60 ml per cup
• 2 to 4 tsp (8 to 16 g) sugar — to taste; or use sweetened condensed milk

Method

1. Bring the water to a boil in the saucepan. Add the tea, lower the heat and simmer gently for 3 to 5 minutes. The liquid should look almost black.
2. Turn off the heat and let the tea stand for 2 minutes.
3. Set the tea sock over a pitcher and pour the tea through it. Then lift the sock with the leaves and pour the strained tea back through it from a height of about 20 cm into the saucepan or second pitcher.
4. Repeat the pull 3 to 4 more times. Each pass through the cloth smooths the tea; it will look lighter and slightly frothy at the end.
5. Return the tea to low heat for 1 minute to reheat it if it has cooled from pulling.
6. Pour 60 ml of evaporated milk into each cup and add the hot tea. Stir in sugar to taste. The color should be a light caramel brown.

Tips for success

• Look for tea labeled for Hong Kong milk tea or a mix of Ceylon BOP (broken orange pekoe) and dust grades. Whole-leaf teas are too mild.
• Add the milk to the cup first, then the tea. Many Hong Kong cafés do this so the milk heats evenly.
• New cloth socks can taste of fabric. Boil a new sock in water for 5 minutes before first use, and keep it stained; it is never washed with soap.

Substitutions

Evaporated milk

Sweetened condensed milk makes a sweeter version and replaces the sugar. Fresh milk tastes much thinner and is not traditional.

Ceylon blend

A strong Assam or English breakfast blend works. Use 14 g, because they are often slightly milder in this method.

Tea sock

A fine-mesh sieve lined with a coffee filter works for straining, but it is slow and you cannot pull the tea as easily.

Variations

Iced Hong Kong milk tea

Chill the strained tea, then serve over ice with evaporated milk. Some cafés freeze milk tea into ice cubes so the drink stays strong.

Yuenyeung

Mix 3 parts milk tea with 1 part strong coffee for this Hong Kong coffee and tea blend.

Troubleshooting

The tea is too bitter

Simmer for 3 minutes rather than 5 and use a lower heat. Evaporated milk should balance bitterness; add another 15 ml if needed.

It tastes thin

Use more tea and evaporated milk, not fresh milk. The tea should look nearly black before milk goes in.

Sediment settles at the bottom of the cup

The sock is too coarse or the tea was poured without straining twice. Pulling several times also filters out fine dust.

Storage

Strained tea without milk keeps in the refrigerator for up to 2 days for iced drinks. Once evaporated milk is opened, transfer the rest to a covered container in the refrigerator and use within 3 to 5 days.

Safety notes

Hong Kong milk tea is brewed very strong and contains a significant amount of caffeine. The FDA cites 400 mg a day as an amount not generally associated with negative effects for most healthy adults; sensitivity varies.