Italian Thick Hot Chocolate (Cioccolata Calda)

Before you start

Cioccolata calda is the thick hot chocolate served in Italian cafés, especially in winter. It is dense and glossy, closer to a warm pudding than a drink, and many people eat it with a spoon or dip biscotti into it. The texture comes from a small amount of starch cooked with the milk, plus a generous amount of chocolate.

The main thing to understand is how starch thickens. Cornstarch only reaches its full thickness after the mixture comes to a gentle bubble and cooks for a minute or two; stopping early gives a thin, slightly floury drink. Whisk the starch, cocoa and sugar into cold milk first so it cannot clump, keep the heat moderate, and whisk constantly, scraping the corners of the pan. Add the chopped chocolate at the end, off the heat, so it melts smoothly without scorching.

Ingredients

• 450 ml (scant 2 cups) whole milk — cold
• 16 g (2 tbsp) cornstarch
• 12 g (2 tbsp) unsweetened cocoa powder
• 25 g (2 tbsp) granulated sugar — adjust to taste
• 1 pinch fine salt
• 90 g (3 oz) dark chocolate (60 to 70% cacao) — finely chopped
• to serve lightly whipped cream — optional

Method

1. Chop the chocolate finely and set it aside.
2. In a cold saucepan, whisk the cornstarch, cocoa, sugar and salt together. Pour in about 100 ml of the cold milk and whisk into a smooth, lump-free slurry, then whisk in the remaining milk.
3. Set the pan over medium heat and whisk constantly, scraping the base and corners with the whisk or a spatula. After 4 to 6 minutes the mixture will begin to thicken.
4. When it reaches a gentle bubble, lower the heat and keep whisking for 1 to 2 minutes more. It should coat the back of a spoon thickly and hold a clear line when you draw a finger through it.
5. Take the pan off the heat. Add the chopped chocolate and whisk until completely melted and glossy, about 1 minute.
6. Taste and add a little more sugar if needed. Pour into warmed small cups and serve with a spoon, topped with whipped cream if you like.

Tips for success

• Serve it in small cups. It is very rich, and smaller portions also stay hot longer.
• If it becomes too thick, whisk in warm milk 1 tbsp at a time until it flows slowly off the spoon.
• The drink thickens further as it cools, so stop cooking when it is a little looser than you want.

Substitutions

Cornstarch

Use 20 g of rice flour or 2 tsp arrowroot. Arrowroot thickens at a lower temperature and turns thin if boiled long, so heat it only until it thickens.

Whole milk

Replace 100 ml of milk with heavy cream for an even richer, more velvety result. Lighter milks work but give a less creamy texture.

Dark chocolate

A mix of half dark and half milk chocolate makes a sweeter, gentler version; reduce the sugar to 1 tbsp.

Variations

Cioccolata con panna

Top each cup with a thick spoonful of lightly whipped unsweetened cream.

Spiced cioccolata

Add a pinch of cinnamon and a tiny pinch of chili powder with the cocoa.

Troubleshooting

It never thickened

The starch did not get hot enough. Bring it to a gentle bubble and cook, whisking, for 1 to 2 minutes.

Lumps formed

The cornstarch was added to hot milk or not whisked enough. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve and next time make the cold slurry first.

It tastes slightly floury

The starch was undercooked. Return it to low heat and simmer gently for another minute, whisking.

It scorched on the bottom

The heat was too high or you stopped whisking. Do not scrape the burnt layer into the drink; pour the rest into a clean pan, and use a heavier pan next time.

Storage

Refrigerate leftovers, covered, within 2 hours and use within 2 days. It sets firm when cold; reheat gently over low heat with a splash of milk, whisking until smooth.