Japanese Royal Milk Tea

Before you start

Royal milk tea is the Japanese name for black tea brewed directly in milk rather than topped up with it. The leaves first open in a small amount of hot water, then milk is added to the pan and heated gently with the tea. The result is noticeably richer and rounder than an English-style cup with a splash of milk, with a creamy body and a caramel-like sweetness from the warmed milk.

Because milk dulls tea flavor, the choice of leaf and the heat matter. Strong, malty Assam or a robust breakfast blend holds up well; delicate teas get lost. Milk must stay just below a simmer: boiling it scalds the flavor and builds a thick skin. A short opening steep in water is the step that keeps the tea from tasting muted.

Ingredients

• 8 g (about 4 tsp loose) Assam or strong breakfast black tea — broken-leaf or CTC grade
• 100 ml (scant ½ cup) water
• 300 ml (1¼ cups) whole milk
• 10 to 20 g (2 to 4 tsp) granulated sugar — optional, to taste

Method

1. Bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the tea leaves, turn off the heat, cover and let them open for 1 minute.
2. Add the milk to the pan and set it over medium-low heat. Stir gently and occasionally with a spoon.
3. Heat until the milk reaches about 85°C (185°F): steam rises steadily and small bubbles appear around the edge. This takes 3 to 5 minutes. Do not let it boil up.
4. Turn off the heat, cover and steep for 2 to 3 minutes, depending on how strong you like it.
5. Stir in the sugar if using, then strain into warmed cups, pressing gently on the leaves.
6. Serve at once while the surface is smooth and before a skin forms.

Tips for success

• Broken-leaf or CTC tea extracts fast and strongly in milk. Large, whole leaves need a slightly longer steep.
• Stirring keeps milk from sticking to the bottom of the pan and catching.
• Warm the cups with hot water first. A milk tea cools quickly in cold porcelain.
• Taste before straining. If it is not strong enough, steep 1 more minute rather than adding more tea.

Substitutions

Assam tea

Ceylon makes a lighter, brighter cup. Darjeeling is too delicate for milk brewing. Earl Grey makes a perfumed version that some people like.

Whole milk

Oat milk works well and heats smoothly. Low-fat milk gives a thinner, less creamy cup. Soy milk may separate if overheated.

Granulated sugar

Honey, brown sugar or condensed milk all work. Condensed milk makes the drink richer and sweeter; add it after straining.

Variations

Iced royal milk tea

Make it slightly stronger with 10 g of tea, sweeten it while hot, then chill and pour over ice.

Royal milk tea with spices

Add a cinnamon stick or 2 crushed cardamom pods with the tea leaves.

Troubleshooting

The tea tastes milky with little tea flavor

The leaves were not opened in water first, or the tea was too delicate. Always start with the short water steep, and use a strong black tea.

A thick skin formed on top

The milk was overheated. Keep it below a simmer and stir while it heats.

The milk tastes cooked or burnt

It boiled or stuck to the pan. Use lower heat and stir more often.

Storage

Royal milk tea is best served immediately. Leftovers can be refrigerated in a covered container for 1 day and gently reheated, but a skin will form. Do not leave milk tea at room temperature for more than 2 hours.

Safety notes

Black tea contains caffeine. The FDA cites 400 mg per day as an amount not generally associated with negative effects for most healthy adults.