Vietnamese Egg Coffee (Cà Phê Trứng)

Before you start

Cà phê trứng is a Hanoi specialty: a small cup of strong, dark coffee crowned with a thick layer of egg yolk whipped with sweetened condensed milk. The topping tastes like a light custard or a not-quite-set tiramisu cream, and you eat it with a spoon before sipping the coffee underneath. It is rich, so cups are small.

The topping needs long whisking. The yolks and condensed milk start out runny and yellow and slowly turn pale, fluffy and thick enough to hold a ribbon. Because the yolks are not cooked to a safe temperature, use pasteurized shell eggs. Serve the cup set in a bowl of hot water, as cafes in Hanoi often do, so the coffee stays warm under the cream.

Ingredients

• 2 large pasteurized egg yolks — from pasteurized shell eggs
• 2 tbsp (30 ml) sweetened condensed milk
• 1 tsp granulated sugar — optional, helps the foam
• ¼ tsp vanilla extract — optional
• 20 g (about 3 tbsp) dark-roast ground coffee — medium-fine, for the phin
• 80 ml (2¾ oz) water — just off the boil

Method

1. Set the phin over the small cup, add the coffee, press it lightly, bloom it with 20 ml hot water for 30 seconds, then add the remaining water and let it drip for about 4 minutes.
2. Meanwhile separate the yolks into a bowl, keeping out any white, which would make the cream thinner.
3. Add the condensed milk, sugar and vanilla to the yolks. Whip with a hand mixer on high for about 3 to 5 minutes, or with a whisk for 8 to 10, until pale, roughly doubled in volume and thick enough to fall in a slow ribbon.
4. Set the cup of coffee in a shallow bowl of hot water to keep it warm.
5. Spoon the egg cream gently onto the coffee so it floats in a thick layer, about 2 to 3 cm (1 inch) deep.
6. Serve with a small spoon. Eat some of the cream first, then stir a little into the coffee as you drink.

Tips for success

• The thicker the whipped yolk, the better it floats. If it sinks, keep whipping; it should mound on the spoon.
• Brew the coffee strong. A thin coffee is lost under the sweet cream.
• A few drops of hot coffee whisked into the cream at the end add flavor and color without making it collapse.

Substitutions

Pasteurized egg yolks

Do not substitute ordinary raw yolks unless you cook the mixture: whisk it over a pan of barely simmering water until it reaches 71°C (160°F), then whip it until cool and fluffy.

Phin coffee

A 40 ml double espresso, topped up with 20 ml hot water, gives a similar strength and works well.

Condensed milk

Sugar alone (2 tbsp) whipped with the yolks makes a lighter, less caramel-tasting cream.

Variations

Iced egg coffee

Pour the coffee over ice in a glass and spoon the cream on top; it stays thicker when cold.

Cocoa egg coffee

Dust the cream with unsweetened cocoa, or replace the coffee with hot cocoa for a caffeine-free version.

Troubleshooting

The cream will not thicken

Whip longer and make sure no egg white got in. A hand mixer is much faster than a whisk.

It tastes eggy

Add the vanilla and a little more sugar, and use very fresh pasteurized eggs. Some eggy flavor is part of the drink.

The coffee went cold under the cream

Keep the cup in its hot water bath and assemble it right before serving.

Storage

Serve immediately; do not make the egg cream ahead. Refrigerate leftover egg yolks or cream right away, and do not leave the drink or the cream at room temperature longer than 2 hours.

Safety notes

The topping uses uncooked egg yolks. The FDA advises using pasteurized shell eggs or pasteurized egg products for recipes served with raw or undercooked eggs, or cooking egg mixtures to 160°F (71°C). This is especially important for young children, pregnant people, older adults and anyone with a weakened immune system.