Virgin Tom Collins

Before you start

A Tom Collins is gin, lemon, sugar and soda served tall over ice: essentially sparkling lemonade with a botanical spine. Remove the gin and you are left with lemonade, unless you put the botanicals back somewhere. This version does that in the syrup. Juniper berries, coriander seed and lemon peel simmer briefly with sugar and water, giving a resinous, citrusy sweetener that carries the gin's main flavors without the alcohol.

After the syrup is made, the drink takes a minute. The ratio is two parts lemon to roughly one and a half parts syrup, shaken briefly and topped with soda. A short shake chills and blends without over-diluting, because the soda adds plenty of length. Serve it in a tall glass with lots of ice, a lemon wheel and a cherry, the classic Collins garnish.

Ingredients

• Botanical syrup100 g (½ cup) granulated sugar
• 100 ml (scant ½ cup) water
• 1 tbsp (about 6 g) juniper berries — lightly crushed
• 1 tsp coriander seed — lightly crushed
• 2 wide strips lemon peel
• Drink30 ml (1 oz) fresh lemon juice
• 22 ml (¾ oz) botanical syrup
• 120 ml (4 oz) soda water — very cold
• 2 cups (about 300 g) ice cubes — for shaking and serving
• 1 lemon wheel and cocktail cherry — for garnish

Method

1. Combine the sugar, water, juniper, coriander and lemon peel in a small saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves, then simmer for 2 minutes.
2. Remove from the heat, cover and steep for 20 minutes. Strain into a jar and cool. It should smell clearly of pine and citrus.
3. Fill the Collins glass with ice. Add the lemon juice and 22 ml syrup to the shaker with a few ice cubes and shake for 5 seconds, just to chill and combine.
4. Strain into the glass and top with the soda water, pouring gently.
5. Lift the bar spoon once through the drink to mix. Garnish with the lemon wheel and cherry and serve.

Tips for success

• Crush the juniper and coriander just enough to crack them; whole spices release flavor slowly and powdered ones cloud the syrup.
• The syrup makes about six drinks. Use it in lemonade or a virgin gin and tonic too.
• Skipping the shaker is fine: build the lemon and syrup in the glass, stir with ice, then top with soda.

Substitutions

Botanical syrup

Plain simple syrup plus 45 ml of a non-alcoholic gin alternative gets a similar result with less work, and a drier, more spirit-like drink.

Lemon juice

Lime makes a Collins closer to a rickey, sharper and more aromatic. Use the same amount.

Soda water

Tonic water brings bitterness and sugar; cut the syrup to 15 ml. Sparkling mineral water with more minerals adds a salty, crisp edge.

Variations

Cucumber Collins

Muddle three cucumber slices in the shaker before adding the lemon and syrup.

Raspberry Collins

Shake with five raspberries and double-strain into the glass.

Troubleshooting

The syrup tastes harsh and piney

Too much juniper or it simmered too long. Steep the spices off the heat and strain at 20 minutes.

It tastes like plain lemonade

The syrup needs more botanicals. Add a few more juniper berries and a pinch of black pepper next time.

The drink is flat

The soda went in before the glass was cold, or it was stirred too much. Top last and stir once.

Storage

Keep the botanical syrup in a clean jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks; discard if cloudy or moldy. Squeeze the lemon on the day you use it, and assemble the drink right before serving.