Absinthe, Pastis and Anise Spirits

Anise spirits share one big flavor, licorice-like anethole, but they are not interchangeable. Absinthe is high-proof, usually unsweetened and built on wormwood, fennel and green anise. Pastis is lower in strength, sweetened and leans on star anise and licorice root. Ouzo, arak, sambuca and Herbsaint each sit somewhere along that line.

In cocktails these bottles mostly appear in tiny amounts: a rinse that coats the glass, a dash in a tiki drink, or a few drops on a foam. This guide covers what sets each style apart, how to rinse a glass properly, how to serve absinthe with water, and why anise drinks turn cloudy.

The main anise styles

All of these spirits get their character from anise-flavored botanicals, but the base, the strength and the sugar vary. Knowing which you have matters, because a sweet pastis poured where a recipe expects dry absinthe will push the drink sweeter and weaker.

• Absinthe: distilled with grand wormwood, green anise and fennel; high proof; green or clear (blanche); usually no added sugar
• Pastis: French, based on star anise and licorice root; sweetened; around 40 to 45 percent ABV
• Herbsaint: an anise liqueur associated with New Orleans, often used in place of absinthe in a Sazerac
• Ouzo and arak: Greek and Levantine anise spirits, usually drunk with water and ice alongside food
• Sambuca: an Italian anise liqueur, noticeably sweeter and syrupy

Why the drink turns cloudy

Anethole and related oils dissolve easily in strong alcohol but not in water. When you add cold water, the alcohol percentage drops and the oils come out as fine droplets that scatter light, turning the drink pale and opaque. The French call this the louche.

A good louche is gradual and even. If an anise drink stays perfectly clear when water goes in, it is either low in essential oils or heavily colored and flavored in other ways. Cloudiness is not a flaw here.

How to rinse a glass

A rinse adds the scent of anise to a stirred drink like the Sazerac without letting it take over. Chill the glass first, add about 5 ml of absinthe or Herbsaint, then tilt and turn the glass so the spirit coats the inside walls. Pour out what remains, or keep it for the next glass.

An atomizer filled with absinthe gives an even lighter touch: two or three sprays over the empty glass, or over the finished drink, are enough.

• Chill the glass before rinsing so the coating clings
• Use a high-proof absinthe for a cleaner, drier rinse
• Pastis works but leaves a slight sweetness behind
• Discard the excess; a puddle in the bottom will dominate

Serving absinthe with water

The traditional serve pours about 30 ml of absinthe into a glass and adds three to five parts ice-cold water slowly, ideally drip by drip from a fountain or a small jug. Some people set a slotted spoon with a sugar cube over the glass and drip the water through it, which sweetens and dilutes at the same pace.

Go slowly and taste as you go. Too little water leaves the spirit hot and harsh; too much makes it thin. Lighting a sugar cube on fire is a modern show trick that adds burnt flavor and real fire risk, so skip it.

Using anise spirits in cocktails

Beyond rinses, anise spirits show up as dashes. The Zombie and several other tiki drinks use a few drops of absinthe or pastis to sharpen a dense mix of rums, citrus and spice. The Corpse Reviver No. 2 relies on an absinthe rinse to cut the sweetness of its orange liqueur and Lillet-style aperitif.

Because the flavor is so strong, measure dashes carefully. Three or four drops from a dropper bottle is safer than a free pour, especially with high-proof absinthe.

Strength and the wormwood myth

Absinthe was banned in many countries in the early twentieth century, and its reputation for causing hallucinations has outlived the ban. The concern centered on thujone, a compound in wormwood. Modern absinthe sold in the U.S., where sales resumed in 2007, must meet limits on thujone, and the bigger issue with absinthe is simply its strength.

A 30 ml pour of absinthe at 68 percent ABV contains about 16 g of pure alcohol, which is a little more than one U.S. standard drink of 14 g. Diluting it with water does not change that total. Do not serve it to anyone under the legal drinking age, and never drink and drive.

Common questions

Can I use pastis instead of absinthe in a Sazerac?

Yes. Pastis or Herbsaint both work for a rinse. Because pastis is sweeter and lower in proof, the rinse will be softer and very slightly sweet, which some people prefer.

Do I need an absinthe fountain?

No. A small pitcher of ice water poured in a thin, slow stream does the same job. The point is to add the water gradually so the louche builds evenly and you can stop when the strength suits you.

Why does ouzo turn white over ice?

Ice chills the spirit and melting water dilutes it, so the anise oils fall out of solution. The same thing happens with pastis and arak. It does not mean the bottle has gone bad.